Ivoirian crisis upturns mllions of Nigerians lives

Abidjan now called Baghdad!

Nigerians killed in Cote d’Ivoire, thousands stranded and starving

Believe it or not, Abidjan, the economic capital of Ivory Coast is now called Baghdad. After weeks of living under incessant sounds of heavy artillery bombardments, residents now see no difference between Abidjan and the Iraqi capital during Operation Desert Storm.

More morbid still is the fact that an unknown number of Nigerians have been killed in Abidjan in the last one month, according to reliable sources. During a sojourn in Elubo, the Ghanaian frontier settlement adjacent to Noe, an equivalent in Cote d’Ivoire; mauricearchibongtravels met hundreds of Nigerians stranded there for days.

Most were starving: “Sir, please, do you have any thing to spare; we haven’t had anything to eat for four days”, one distraught woman with a baby strapped to her back begged me. All the stranded Nigerians we met at Elubo had nothing but tales of woe to recount.

Many carried bruises; and, one of such Nigerians fleeing Ivory Coast was victim of a car crash that left him with a serious head injury. Owing to the severity of the man’s condition, good Samaritans went to inform the Nigerian High Commission in Accra; where we gathered, an official was despatched to handle the case of the accident victim.

Sad as the crash victim’s case is, dozens of Nigerians were not even that lucky; “they were slaughtered in Abidjan”, according some Nigerian respondents; who revealed our compatriots were attacked by militia loyal to either side of the conflict in Ivory Coast. 

“Most of us have lost all our belongings; our homes were looted, we were beaten and threatened with execution”: this was the lament of a man, who said he had lived in Abidjan for 18 years and never in his wildest imagination could he have feared things could come to this.

Mr. Akuma Ekere, who hails from Ohafia, Abia State; has been living in Ivory Coast since 2001. He resided in Adjame and made a living as an importer as well as retailer of electronic wares. His business was lucrative enough for him to live comfortably; and he even owned a car. Despite banks’ closure, Ekere was not altogether broke, being a trader. But, the war in Abidjan forced Mr. Ekere to flee his home. Sadly too, the little he had in his home was lost to looters/robbers that stormed the place pretending to be militia men.

Thus, when he needed to escape from Ivory Coast, Ekere had no money to take care of the fare out of Abidjan through Aboisso to Noe. But, he still had one valuable belonging left; a handset, he bought for CFA 35,000 (roughly N13,000). However, owing to his desperate situation; Ekere was forced to part with that phone in exchange for CFA 12,000 (less than N4,000). After paying his way to Elubo, Mr. Ekere still had some money left; but, he was stripped of that at Noe by frontier post staffers.

Aside paying for himself, Ekere had run into an acquaintance, a younger Nigerian named Wilson Nwankwo; and, had to rescue the lad from uncertain fate at the hands of Ivoirian gendarmes. After collecting what was left on Ekere, one of the Ivoirian security personnel would not grant Nwankwo exit until the beleaguered Nigerian youth was forced to surrender his wristwatch in exchange for flight into Ghana.

Ekere again: “After three days stranded at Elubo, I was lucky to run into officials of the International Organisation for Migration (IOM), who took some of us to a camp they had set-up nearby. Unfortunately, we had no water to bathe for three days; but, unlike before, I had food to eat; even though this was a sort of Akamo made from rice and sweetened with sugar. For three days, this was the only meal available; and, at some point, the mere thought of eating the same thing made me want to puke”.

As to the impact of those few days’ suffering on his physique, this is what Ekere had to say; “This is not my complexion o …After four days of going without food and a wash, my skin began to change colour. But, I am happy to say that the IOM treated us very well, in deed. For the first time in three consecutive days; I can frankly tell you that I ate thrice in one day again; after the IOM brought me to Accra and put me in a multi-star hotel”.

However, it won’t be long before his mood turned cloudy again: “Now, before God and man; I am left with nothing”, the middle-aged man cried, adding; the Nigerian Government should come to our rescue. Under normal circumstances, the government should have prepared to evacuate its citizens long before now”, he opined.

Mr. David Ogwu is another Nigerian, who fled Abidjan and is alive to tell his story. Ogwu is a Pastor and founder of Miple (Ministre Internationale l’Paixance et la Luniere d’Evangie), which roughly translates as Power and Light International Gospel Ministry. Pastor Ogwu and his Ivoirian-born wife, Kavine Kouassi, lived in Abobo; and, Miple stood in the same neighbourhood. During a chat with mauricearchibongtravels, the cleric said he left Abidjan and relocated to Ghana on 10 March because of escalating violence in every confrontation between pro-government and anti-government forces. The couple practically abandoned their home and fled, following attacks on their home by various armed looters.

Interestingly, despite the trauma this pastor and his wife were going through; Ogwu’s attitude was very inspiring: few things are as exhilarating as getting up after a fall, goes one saying; and, this evangelist is struggling to quickly get back on his feet again. He hopes to continue his evangelical mission in Ghana, he revealed; but, for now; to make ends meet, the man was about launching a trading business; when we met. An old friend of Ogwu had run into the displaced couple in Accra; and, sensing their plight had given Ogwu a CFA 10,000 (about N3,400) present. Pronto! Ogwu had gone shopping for second-hand cloths, which he hopes to resell at a profit. That way, man and wife can at least keep body and soul together.

Interestingly, this was a well-to-do couple until the Ivoirian civil war literally upturned their lives. “Every thing we have, was left in Abidjan”, he said amid sighs. When asked, if he was aware that Abidjan had been nick-named Baghdad; Pastor Ogwu smiled wryly as he recalled that on the eve of their flight to Ghana, “the whole of Abobo could not sleep because of the noise of heavy gunshots”. 

Miracle turns nightmare

Imagine a situation, where every bank in the country is shut for weeks. In that circumstance, practically everyone becomes broke. Without money, you can’t buy food, which means everyone is hungry. Across Ivory Coast, people are starving; Ivoirians as well as non-Ivoirians, including millions of Nigerian migrants in that country; where banks have been closed since early February.

Ivory Coast was once called The African Miracle; such were the uncommon strides recorded by this country in the days of President Felix Houphouet-Boigny that Ivory Coast practically dwarfed every other country in West Africa in every way. In its halcyon day, the then capital city of Ivory Coast, Abidjan, was fondly known as Pearl of the lagoon.

Today, however, Ivory Coast has degenerated into “An African Nightmare” and the former “Pearl of the lagoon” has not only lost its lustre completely; the city is now in ruins. And, as it is to be expected; everyone, indigenes and foreigners alike, are fleeing Ivory Coast in droves.

How the table has turned: countless Liberians had sought refuge in Ivory Coast, when civil war raged in their country barely 10 years ago; today, the flight is in the opposite direction because of the spiralling crisis in Cote d’Ivoire. Some 9,000 Ivoirians have already read fled into Liberia, according to UNHCR (United Nations High Commission for Refugees) sources. Aside the 9,000 Ivoirians that have fled into Liberia, about 25,000 are expected to seek refuge in Ghana.

Aside Nigerians and Ivoirians, Ghanaians have also fled Ivory Coast. In fact, Ghana Immigration Service (GIS) personnel revealed that some 35,000 Ghanaian migrants in Ivory Coast “have expressed interest in being repatriated”. From an encounter between officials of Ghana Immigration Service (GIS) and some reporters at Elubo, it came to light that by Saturday, 26 March; at least 3,000 applications had been received from Ivoirians seeking registration as refugees in Ghana.

Mr. Musah Mohammed, second-in-command at Ellubo Sector Command of GIS; revealed there is a staggering number of Ivoirians moving into Ghana to settle, though not as refugees; apart from the 3,000 that have applied for refugee status, according to a report in the Monday, 28 March, 2011, edition of Accra, Ghana-based The Chronicle.

The Chronicle further stated that in one day alone, on Tuesday; 22 March, GIS in collaboration with the United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR) recorded 365 Ivoirian refuge-seekers; and, that “an average of 100 Ivoirians were being registered on daily basis as refugee applicants at Ellubo”.

In the same vein, the UNHCR Protection Officer, Mr. Veton Orama, in a chat with The Chronicle; revealed the UN agency was “working closely with officials of Ellembelle District Assembly” to construct a Refugee Camp at Ampain to quarter roughly 25,000 Ivoirians expected to wash into Ghana because of the crisis in their country. Already, 300 tents have been erected to serve as temporary homes to the displaced Ivoirians, now under the care of the Ghanaian government and the UNHCR.

It is worth recalling the muse of Chief Nyamekeh Fofole II, paramount ruler of Ampain; while speaking on his community’s responsibility as host of the Ivoirian refugees. Visibly disturbed by the pitiable plight of the refugees, which includes lawyers, doctors, architects, journalists and other professionals; this chief advised Ghanaian politicians to show magnanimity and maturity in their conducts; for, the refugees could have been Ghanaians, if care had not been taken. He therefore called on politicians to avoid mudslinging, insults and other tendencies capable of causing upheavals. In fact, Chief Nyamekeh Fofole II could well have been talking to Nigerian politicians as well.

Encounters with Nigerian refugees

Like other inhabitants of Abidjan, most Nigerians are also victims of the impecuniosities caused by banks’ closures. Following attacks against Nigerians, many of whose homes had been looted; others resorted to selling off personal belongings at give-away prices to raise money for fares to flee from Cote d’Ivoire.

That is how some Nigerians managed to get to Elubo; however, owing to extortions on the way to the border as well as at the hands of officials manning the Ivoirian frontier posts; many entered the Ghanaian side of the Ivory Coast-Ghana border practically penniless. As a result, hundreds of Nigerians are stranded at Elubo, Accra in Ghana as well as sundry other places along the Abidjan-Lagos Corridor.

They have no food to eat and no fare to pay their way back home and out of crushing misery. We met many of these distraught Nigerians and recorded their sad experiences. Mr. Balogun Bashiru, who lived in Abidjan’s Abobo Gare neighbourhood; said he had to flee with his wife, who is carrying a pregnancy of over nine months. By the time they made it to Accra, the wife had taken ill and had to be hospitalised.

“Now, I am hypertensive because of all this crises and the struggles and threats we faced during our attempt to escape from Cote d’Ivoire”, Mr. Bashiru lamented. On his part, Mr. Oladapo Adewole had charged: “Our embassy workers have no regard for Nigerians in foreign countries. After we were transported to Accra and quartered in a hotel, the ambassadors of Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo and Benin came to visit their fellow citizens at the hotel; but, we were ignored completely by the Nigerian High Commission in Accra. Nobody from our embassy bothered to come to meet us, and after we found our way here, we were refused entry into our own embassy”!

After slamming the Nigerian High Commission, Accra; Adewole’s mood suddenly turned funereal as he lamented: “I hope my elder brother is safe…” Everyone was forced to flee spontaneously, and with people running helter-skelter; Oladapo lost touch with his elder brother Olayinka, we were told.

Mr. Adeleke Sarafa, a native of the Osun State town of Iragberi, was among the 17 Nigerians we met at the high commission in Accra. Sarafa, who had lived in Ivory Coast for 15 years, resided in the Williamsville neighbourhood of Adjame, an Abidjan suburb. Although he made a living selling and repairing phones, Mr. Sarafa had no phone by the time we met him: “I had to surrender my last phone to touts at Noe (Ivoirian frontier settlement) before I was granted exit. Now, I have nothing”, he lamented.

Mr. Basiru Olayinka, another resident of Williamsville in Adjame, is 42 years old. He was born in Abidjan and until he fled into Ghana on Friday, 25 March, 2011; had lived in the Ivoirian economic capital all his life. He has never visited Nigeria; and, was wondering where to call home on arrival here. He, however, recalled that his dad; who died a long time ago, used to speak fondly of Osun State. Mr. Olayinka, therefore, believes his hometown has to be somewhere in Osun State.

Mr. Afolabi Fawole, 31, is another of the 17 Nigerian refugees. He was born in Osun State and had lived in Nigeria until 2004; when he relocated to Abidjan. He said he was resident in the Petite Marche neighbourhood of Abidjan: like the other Nigerian refugees, Fawole also got into Ghana high and dry. He said the first meal he ate after starving for four days; was made possible through the generosity of the IOM (International Organisation for Migration).

Mr. Ronke Timothy, also one of the 17 refugees; was born in Abidjan: like most of the others, Timothy speaks French fluently. The man, who also speaks Yoruba; even though he has lived in Ivory Coast all his life; said his Abidjan home stood in Abobo. Following the ferocity and frequency of the sounds of heavy artillery which exploded in Abobo, that Abidjanese quarter has now been nicknamed Baghdad, he corroborated.

Aside Nigerians fleeing Ivory Coast, whom we met at the high commission, we also interacted with many others at Elubo, the Ghanaian border town adjacent to Noe in Ivory Coast; and, in Accra, the Ghanaian capital. However, some of such respondents didn’t want their names mentioned, and much fewer still were willing to have their pictures taken. Nonetheless, the remark of one these refugees, who said he hails from Aba, Abia State; is worth echoing here: “The Nigerian government did not do any thing to help her citizens in Cote d’Ivoire, which is why many of them perished there”.

At Elubo

Mr. Charles Nweke, who hails from Ikwo Local Government Area (LGA) in Ebonyi State, is one of the Nigerians we met at Elubo. At Elubo, we also ran into 33-year-old Mr. Onyekwelu Uzobulu, a native of Obosi in Anambra State; who confessed: “We are stranded”. Unlike most other Igbo-Nigerians we met at Elubo, who appeared too proud to lament their predicament; even, when some were visibly hungry; after arriving in Ghana broke; we were moved to part with some money to help Mr. Uzobulu find some panacea for being bold enough to confess his plight. Here was a man, who made a living as a trader selling female handbags; but, was now stranded and starving allegedly because of comments made by officials of the government of his home country.

A few of the luckier Nigerians were holding out at Osamidi Hotel, a lodge at Elubo, where a room costs from 10cedi (about N1,200) to 25cedi (roughly N2,600); hoping that the crisis would abate and they could return to Abidjan. These are uncommon optimists or sceptics. Some told me they have difficulty returning to Nigeria because of the harsh conditions that made them leave their country in the first place. Such ones sounded particularly bitter about the situation in their home country.

They wondered how Nigerians live without electricity, without good road network, without pipe-borne water and reliable healthcare services. “These are things taken for granted in Ivory Coast; and, even here; where you are talking to us, there is uninterrupted electricity in this Ghanaian border town and you can also enjoy pipe-borne water. If I return to Nigeria, how do you want me to cope”? This was the critical query put to me by one of the Nigerians we met.

Even before the man had finished speaking; and, as if the comments of this speaker were not scathing enough, another had quickly interjected; “Do you want us to return, so that we can be kidnapped? Okay, I have been managing in this foreign land as a trader; I would prefer to live in my own country; but, I suffered for many years before I decide to relocate here. For the past 15 years that I have been living here, I have enjoyed regular power supply, good road network and pipe-borne water; all these, in spite of the fact that Ivory Coast has been technically in a civil war since 2002.

“In Nigeria, what would I return to do, and how do you expect me to cope? I think Nigeria is a nation of insane leaders. Nigeria has been ruled successively by people most of whom are lunatics; so, I am not particularly anxious to return until things begin to show some sign of normalcy. This is why I am waiting here and praying to God to help Cote d’Ivoire find peace, again”.

Another victim, who would not reveal his name, claimed to be an indigene of Idemili North Local Government Area in Anambra State. He said he relocated to Abidjan in 2006 and has been living in Abidjan, where he worked as a retailer of used refrigerators. He said he is 29 years old and could not give us the phone number of any Nigerian he knew in Abidjan because he had lost his phones to Ivoirian looters that stormed his residence and those of other Nigerians, following the endorsement by the Nigerian President of the ECOWAS Commission’s plan to use “every means possible to remove President Gbagbo and install Alassane Ouattara as President of Ivory Coast”.

Barely two hours after that decision was made public; countless Ivoirian youth had invaded homes of immigrants from other West African countries and asking victims to identify themselves. While Ghanaians, Togolese and Liberians were spared; apparently due to their governments’ perceived tactful approach to the Ivoirian crisis; contrarily, Nigerians have been particularly targeted. Aside Nigerians, indigenes of Burkina Faso and Senegal were also singled out for harassment.

However, Nigerians; who are now called ECOMOG, have borne the worst brunt; Nigerians seen in some neighbourhoods by the rampaging patrols mounted by pro-government youth, are severely beaten and stripped of their belongings. Although Nigerians have been fleeing Ivory Coast since the political crisis took on a morbid twist in December, 2010; the unwavering role of the Nigerian authorities sparked a mass exodus of Nigerians from Ivory Coast from Friday, 18 March.

Nigerians have been returning in droves with the majority narrating tales of various heart-rending experiences. An usually large number of vehicles bearing Ivoirian number plates are now common at Seme, where there seems to be an endless stream of mammy wagons bringing Nigerian returnees.

Apparently due to his shaken mood, one respondent, who could not recall the name of the leader of the Nigerian community in the Abidjan neighbourhood of Rivarade, a suburb in Cocody; however, said he knew the man to be a Yoruba native; and, that the community leader had asked all members to provide two copies of passport photographs; fill out a form stating their personal details, such as state of origin, local government areas, next of kin in Nigeria, length of stay in Abidjan; and so on; for onward transmission to the Nigerian Embassy, Abidjan for documentation. So that, in the event of evacuation, the embassy would be in a better position to arrange such rescue.

However, two days after he submitted his own data, the crisis assumed a more morbid turn prompting him to flee into Ghana for dear life. After landing in Ghana entirely penniless; having been robbed like other compatriots by Ivoirian border workers, he was stranded at Elubo for three days with nothing to eat and no place to sleep. But, the man would later add; somewhat cheerfully, that subsequently; his trip to Accra from Elubo was made possible by officials of IOM. On arrival in the Ghanaian capital, he had managed to find his way to the Nigerian High Commission to solicit assistance in continuing his journey home.

At Aflao Border

About 7pm (local time), a deputy superintendent of Ghana Immigration Service (GIS), whose name we discovered from his name-tag, is Mr. Sabi; was handing over to one of his colleagues of the same rank, who, apparently was on nightshift; when I walked into their office to have my passport stamped.

After travelling 10 hours from Aflao to Elubo, one had spent about the same number of hours coming in the opposite direction; and, my wearied body was yearning for some rest. I had entered the GIS control station at Afloa tired and somewhat bored, but a remark by Mr. Sabi would suddenly put me on the alert again. “Please, include the list of the 200 Nigerian refugees coming from Ivory Coast that crossed here as we were about to close for the day”, Mr. Sabi had said.

For roughly one week, countless Nigerians had daily crossed the Ghana-Togo frontier on their way back home after escaping from strife-torn Cote d’Ivoire. The 17 Nigerians I had run into, who had also escaped from Ivory Coast; and, had made their way to the Nigerian High Commission in Accra in search of succour; were part of the exodus. Apparently, after being disallowed entry into the premises; tempers had flared with some of the refugees hurling invectives, expletives and even curses at staffers of the local Nigerian mission.

Coming out of the embassy, where we just concluded a chat with a consular officer, Mr. Andrew Idi; the coincidence with the returnees’ outburst could hardly be more fortuitous; and, we had settled to engaging some of them to find out their grouse and how they made good their escape from Ivory Coast.

From fry-pan to fire

The crisis in Ivory Coast has worsened deeply in the last one month. Hundreds of more deaths as well as various other casualties have been recorded, despite efforts by intercessors to bring an end to the logjam between President Laurent Gbagbo and Mr. Alassane Ouattara, acclaimed winner of the 18 December, 2010 of Ivory Coast’s presidential election re-run.

With pressure on Mr. Gbagbo from the international community, apparently marshalled by France; Mr. Ouattara and his supporters have waxed stronger. Rebel forces loyal to Ouattara have reportedly captured several settlements in the western parts of Ivory Coast, in addition to the northern half of the country under their control since 2002; and, on Monday, 4 April; there were reports that Mr. Gbagbo has not been seen in public for days and that the country’s presidential villa; where he lived had been sacked by French troops operating under the aegis of the local United Nations peace-keeping force.

Numerous sanctions had been placed, curiously with uncanny haste, on the government of President Laurent Gbagbo since the disputed result of the re-run of Ivory Coast’s presidential election, sparked renewed violence. As had been feared, millions of innocent inhabitants have become victims of acute deprivations arising from these sanctions.

Apart from all that had been spent on travelling from Nigeria’s south-western frontier town Oglobo, wrongly called Seme; to reach Kodzoviakope, Togo’s extreme south-western border town adjacent to Ghana’s Aflao; we had additionally paid 22 new Ghana cedi to get to Elubo. After a 10-hour drive to Elubo, Ghana’s extreme western frontier settlement; from Aflao, we had stopped to quench thirst and freshen up; and, it was in front of a kiosk, where provisions are sold; that we spoke to an Ivoirian man, who works as driver of one of the dozens of commercial vehicles that shuttle between Noe, the nearest border settlement in Ivory Coast; and, Elubo, the adjacent frontier town in Ghana.

The Ivoirian-born chauffeur lamented that business was no longer what it used to be. “For the past three months, the traffic has been mostly one-way: Passengers are usually coming out from Ivory Coast, with very few going in”. It is worth noting that, while Elubo-Noe appears one of the most secure borders along the so-called Abidjan-Lagos Corridor; it presents the most hostile obstacle to Nigerians because Ivoirian security personnel usually ask Nigerians to cough out more money as bribe. To get your passport stamped, these officials demand CFA3,000 (roughly N1,000) from the citizens of most of the other ECOWAS countries. But, when it comes to Ghanaians, the greedy Ivoirian border-post personnel demand CFA5,000 (about N1,700). Interestingly, however, CFA10,000 (over N4,200) is always asked from a Nigerian!

As to why Ivoirian security personnel always demand more money from Nigerian commuters, this affable driver opined in a smarting combination of English-cum-French: “All Hummer, Infinity, Murano in Abidjan are Nigerians …Les Nigerian sont tres tres riches”. Nigerians, he made us to understand; are generally seen as moneybags since they cruise around Abidjan in exotic cars and enjoy lavish and loud lifestyles.

More of Ghanaian media’s take on the crisis

We return to select Ghanaian newspapers for further insights into the Ivoirian crisis. The Monday, 28 March issue of The Guide revealed: “A lot of Nigerians, Beninoise, Malians, Burkinabes, who are fleeing the conflict in Ivory Coast; are stranded at Elubo”. The Guide further stated: “According to the refugees, the normal fare charged by the drivers of long buses that ply the Abidjan-Lagos road is CFA35,000, but the drivers are now collecting the same amount from Elubo to Lagos”.

“The drivers are charging exorbitant fares to take people from Elubo to Niamey (Niger Republic), Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso), Bamako (Mali) and Porto Novo (Benin Republic) as well as Lagos (Nigeria)”, continued The Guide; whose report further revealed that commercial drivers are also smiling to the bank from taking passengers from Elubo to Takoradi. In the past, the fare was 5cedi; but, drivers taking advantage of the exodus from Ivory Coast have jerked up the fare by 2cedi to 7cedi.  

Interpretation: From Elubo, the journey to Lagos would have been reduced by some 3 hours; in other words, people are being fleeced because the situation is desperate. The hike could also have been prompted by a problem the drivers now face: the journey has become a one-way affair; there are ample passengers outbound, but virtually no one willing to come in the opposite direction.

What an official at Nigerian High Commission, Accra; had to say

Following various heart-rending lamentations by dozens of stranded Nigerians we met in Elubo and later Accra, we had set out for the Nigerian High Commission to hear their own side of the story. On arrival there on Monday, 31 March; we were advised to come back the following day.

Although we had no plans to pass the night in Accra, one was now compelled to do so. On getting to the Nigerian mission the following day, Tuesday, 29 March; we were referred to Mr. Andrew Idi, Minister Counsellor (Consular) at Nigeria High Commission in Ghana, who said “Nigerian Government has arrangement for repatriation of our citizens in Ivory Coast”. Idi, who intoned that Nigerian Embassy in Abidjan was at the centre of that evacuation effort; however, added: “Nigerian High Commission, Accra has been receiving some refugees piecemeal, say about four/five daily for some days now”.

This minister-counsellor went on to explain that when such distraught ones turned up, the mission usually starts by verifying their nationality; and, where the authenticity of their claim of being Nigerians was established, “we issue Emergency Travel Certificate (ETC); also, depending on the availability of resources, we aid those that cannot transport themselves to Lagos”.

Further explaining that Nigerian High Commission in Accra was concerned about the plight of our stranded compatriots, Idi revealed; “Two weeks ago, we had a meeting with officials of the International Organisation for Migration (IOM) and other stakeholders to prepare for taking care of these refugees”. Additionally, the high commission had got in touch with Abuja with a view to setting up a permanent arrangement for evacuation of Nigerians from Ivory Coast, Idi submitted.

Nonetheless, 17 Nigerians that had virtually hinged all hopes of rescue on Nigerian High Commission in Accra; were barred entry into the compound. Consequently, tempers had flared with some of the refugees hurling insults on Nigerian mission workers. This was the scenario we walked into on our way out of Nigerian High Commission, Accra. We had subsequently sat on bare ground to engage the Nigerians; and, after some 30 minutes chatting with them outside the embassy gates, Mr. Idi emerged to invite them into the premises.

Convinced that these distraught ones would get some succour, we had commenced our outward trip from Ghana. On Thursday, 31 March; some of the refugees had called me to say the high commission had facilitated their trip to Lagos. Albeit, some of the refugees still expressed unhappiness about “the meagre assistance” they were allegedly given: this may explain why one of the returnees called to say he was stranded at Agege, after arrival in Lagos.

Epilogue

Nigerians caught in the crossfire would have been more, but for the fact that many of them had come home for last Christmas’ and New Year Day’s celebrations. By early January, when the majority of them would usually have begun to make their way back to Ivory Coast; the situation had considerably worsened, prompting many to stay back in Nigeria and monitor developments.

One of those in this category is Chief Theophilus Opara, a respected member of Nigerian community in Ivory Coast; whose Treichville, Abidjan home we visited, when we came this way in 1997; to report on that country’s 40^th independence anniversary. We had again visited Chief Opara in October 2000 as well as August 2011 during subsequent sojourns in Ivory Coast.

 - By MAURICE ARCHIBONG, who was at the Ivory Coast-Ghana border town of Elubo.

Benin 2011 presidential polls

Benin presidential poll latest

Incumbent President Yayi, leading opposition candidate Houngbedji warm up for run-off

As predicted in our analysis of this year’s presidential election in Benin Republic, published in Daily Sun of Friday, 11 March (reproduced below this report); a run-off seems inevitable from preliminary results released by the country’s independent electoral commission, CENA (Centre Electorale Nationale autonome) Wednesday.

Although the principal opposition candidate, Dr. Adrien Houngbedji has taken an early lead with 46.3 of the results so far collated; he will have to square up against incumbent President Boni Yayi to determine who occupies the local Presidential Palace from April, this year. Dr. Yayi polled 44.5 percent of the votes to come second, however; the results are not conclusive. 

President Boni Yayi's poster. PHOTOS: MAURICE ARCHIBONG

Mr. Adrien Houngbedji is candidate of UN, a multi-party coalition; instead of just his party; the PRD (Parti du Renouveau Democratique). Since none of the flag-bearers bagged the mandatory minimum of 50percent of the votes for an outright win, Beninese voters will return to polling stations for a run-off election within three weeks.

It is worth noting that disputes arose over results released for Cotonou’s 8^th Council (Huiteme Arrondissement), where speculation is rife the number of votes recorded outnumbered that on the voters’ register. Huiteme Arrondissement includes a densely-populated neighbourhood called Agbontikan. However, it is not clear which of the candidates the result from that area favoured. 

Scene from one of Adrien Houngbedji's UN campaign offices.

Interestingly, 10 of the 14 candidates scored less than one percent each; collectively, with less than 4 percent of the total vote garnered by this octet; they ended up mere also-ran, as we did forecast. Moreover, our position that charismatic Mr. Abdoulaye Bio Tchane (fondly called ABT, who promised Integrite, Unite, Travail; i.e. governance built around integrity, unity and industry, would not make much difference; also proved true with the 5.6 percent of the votes he got. Mr. Salifou Issa came fifth with 1.6percent votes cast. 

While the campaigns were on.

It could be recalled that the 13 March presidential election had earlier been postponed twice apparently due to inadequate preparedness.

 - MAURICE ARCHIBONG

Below is my piece on this year’s presidential election in Benin

Benin Presidential election holds Sunday

…Run-off expected

Finally, this year’s presidential election in neighbouring Benin Republic will hold on Sunday, 13 March. The 2011 presidential poll, which had been postponed twice, is the fifth; since this country returned to democracy 20 years ago.

Home to roughly 2million Nigerians and a major trading partner of Nigeria, Benin Republic is also vital to West Africa because it serves as an important link between the eastern fringes of the sub-region to the western frontiers around Mauritania.

Millions of Nigerians and other travellers daily commute between Cameroon, through Nigeria, Cotonou (Benin), Lome (Togo), Accra (Ghana) and on to Abidjan in Cote d’Ivoire; therefore, any unrest in Benin could prove debilitating for countless West Africans, who shuttle on daily basis the Littoral Axis of the Trans-ECOWAS Highway.

Fortunately, however, the Beninese people have acquitted themselves commendably during the campaigns. There has been no assassination here and the level of violence virtually inconsequential compared with the norm in one or two other West African nations. In deed, the numerous floats bearing colourfully attired supporters of different parties across Cotonou, Porto-Novo and other settlements in this country evoked a carnival-like atmosphere everywhere.

At Agblagadan, a Cotonou neighbourhood, for example; three different parties’ campaign teams riding in floats and marching in the street ran into themselves; and, unlike in some other country, where cudgels and missiles would have been flying everywhere over such encounter; the parties’ partisans simply tried to do outdo their rivals through louder volume of music and more vibrancy in their chanting and dancing.

The Vuvuzela, South Africa’s gift to the world after a successful hosting of the first World Cup on the continent has also come in handy here. Many parties’ faithful could be seen zooming past on motorcycles and joyfully blowing their “vuvuzela” as they rode along. Also, Nigerian hip-hop music was frequently heard blaring from some of the gigantic loudspeakers mounted on the floats. Such has been the carnival air of the campaigns that you wished the presidential election could be held every year in Benin.

  

Curiously, almost 4million voters were registered for the 2006 presidential election in this nation of barely 7million population; and, even then; there were complaints that millions could not get on the voters’ register. Psephologists, journalists and independent observers; both local and international, could be seen across this country; and, to record a successful election, various relevant organs; including CENA (Commission electorale nationale autonome), Benin’s equivalent of Nigeria’s INEC (Independent National Electoral Commission); CSP (Commission de Supervision Politique) and LEPI (l’etablissement de la Liste electoral) had since swung into action.

However, there have been complaints; including reported late arrival of electoral materials and inability of many eligible voters to get on the voters’ register. Difficulties in compilation of voters’ register and snags in distribution of voters’ cards were commonly cited. In fact, a newspaper, “l’evenement précis” in its 10 February edition, carried a report on page 3; where Mr. Adrien Houngbedji, candidate of UN, a multi-party coalition; condemned alleged serious irregularities.

The report hints at possible disenfranchisement of over 1.5million voters through the inability of such prospective voters to register to vote. Evidently, issues like these compelled a shift of the election, which was earlier due to hold on Sunday, 6 March.

Given the crises that trailed last November/December elections in Ivory Coast as well as the one in Guinea two years ago; there could be apprehension in some quarters over the outcome of next Sunday’s presidential election in Benin Republic. However, it is doubtful this election would spark any serious strife; for, Beninese remember very well the hardship countless Togolese suffered, following post-election violence in the late Gnassingbe Eyadema’s country.

It could be recalled that thousands of refugees that fled Togo were camped by the United Nations’ High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR) in the Beninese town of Come; and, millions of Beninese, who saw first-hand some of these victims and heard their tales of woe would be wary of doing any thing that could land them in similar plight.

This year’s presidential poll in Benin has been made more exciting because it features a unique realignment of forces. Unlike 2006, when as many as 26 candidates were in the race; there are 14 flag-bearers this time.  Even with this much fewer 14 candidates, it is widely believed that the poll will result in a run-off; like several others before it. Where the 13 March exercise proves inconclusive, a re-run by the two leading contenders must take place in two weeks, going by the Constitution of the Benin Republic.

Incumbent President, Dr. Boni Yayi, is in the race; which features only one female candidate in the 14-man pack. The sole female candidate is 57-year-old Ms. Akouavi Marie-Elise Christiana Gbedo, a one-time minister of commerce, industry and tourism in the late 1990s under the Mathieu Kerekou presidency. Ms Gbedo was also in the 2006 presidential race, and it could be recalled that while campaigning as an independent candidate, she had practically urged then outgoing President Kerekou to prosecute all political office holders, whom she alleged had plundered the national economy; before handing over power on 6 April of that year.

Though widely respected as a distinguished adjudicator, intellectual and feminine rights activist; it is doubtful she would make much impact, given the political weight of those she is up against. But, it would be wrong to write her off; for, going by the constitution, Ms Gbedo has two more presidential elections in which she could run before clocking 70 years. Septuagenarians and older folks are barred from contesting for Benin Republic’s highest political office.

Other candidates in the 2011 presidential election in former Dahomey include Abdoulaye Bio Tchane (ABT), Cyr Kouagou, Issa Salifou, Joachim Dahissiho, Kessile Tchalla, Janvier Yahouedeou, Victor Topanou, Joseph Biokou, Jean Yves Sinzogan and Lagnide Christian. Janvier Yahouedehou also ran as an independent candidate in the 5 March 2006 presidential elections in Benin. As before, he promises to build a modern, professional and transparent administration, if elected.

On his part, charismatic ABT promises (“Integrite, Unite, Travail”); i.e. governance built around integrity, unity and industry, while Dr. Yayi is being marketed as the candidate of all Beninese (“Le candidat de les tout Beninois”). Truly, with Bariba, Fulani and Yoruba bloods flowing in his veins, Yayi certainly enjoys an advantage here. It is also worth noting that despite being baptised Muslim, he had later converted to Christianity. However, in this nation, where state religion is voodoo; it is hard to say to what extent his conversion might count in this election. 

Having been president for four years already, Yayi is also reminding prospective voters that his experience is an advantage (“Notre experience, notre force”). However, Mr. Houngbedji’s camp is calling on Beninese to opt for change, even liberation; (“Maintenant Avancons”), as their posters say. But, for presidential candidate Issa Salifou, the future is now (“l’Avenir c’est aujourd hui”).  

Benin Republic comprises 12 Regions: Alibori, Atacora, Atlantique, Borgou, Collines, Couffo, Donga, Littoral, Mono, Oueme, Plateau and Zou; and, the 14 candidates come from seven of these dozen political units. Biokou, Houngbedji and Lagnide come from Oueme Region. Salifou hails from Alibori, while Gbedo, Sinzogan and Topano are from Atlantique; Kouagou is from Atacora; and, Dahissiho and Yahouedeou from Zou. However, this time around, the majority of these 14 candidates are likely to again end up simply as also-ran.

Mr. Adrien Houngbedji and Abdoulaye Bio Tchane constitute the leading opposition as far as incumbent President Yayi, who hails from Borgou, is concerned. However, the run-off is most likely going to feature Dr. Yayi and Mr. Houngbedji; even though Mr. Tchane, fondly called ABT, also commands something of a large following. Seen as a possible surprise candidate in some quarters, ABT is a seasoned economist and banker; his chances could, however, be adversely affected by the fact that he hails from the same Donga Region as another candidate, Mr. Kessile Tchala Sare.

Interestingly, speculation is rife within some quarters that next Sunday’s election could actually throw up an outright winner in the person of Houngbedji; irrespective of the fact that two other candidates from his region could dim his performance by splitting the voters there.

Already 69 years old, Houngbedji would be 74, and therefore, too old; going by the Benin Constitution, to ever run for president again beyond this election. This is the reason many Beninese think he is handling this one as the election of his life; and, it is worth noting Houngbedji is not only candidate for his PRD (Parti du Renouveau Democratique).

In the 2006 election, Lehardy Soglo, one of the sons of former president, Nicephore Soglo; was presidential candidate on the platform of RB (l’Renaissance du Benin), while Bruno Amossou was flag-bearer for PSD (Parti Social Democrate) and Lazare Sehoueto for Force Cle as well as Kolawole Idji for MADEP (Mouvement African pour Developpment et le Progres). This quartet has withdrawn from this year’s election and thrown in their lot with Houngbedji. In other words, Houngbedji’s chances are now much brighter because he is candidate for the six-party coalition called UN (l’Union fait la Nation).

Moreover, former president Nicephore Soglo has also thrown his weight behind Houngbedji; but, it shouldn’t be difficult to say, who; between Boni Yayi and Houngbedji, is the preferred candidate of Mathieu Kerekou, another ex-president of Benin. Houngbedji could be likened to Nigeria’s late lawyer and activist, Chief Gani Fawehinmi, in some ways. Here is a man, who would not keep silent in the face of tyranny. Like Chief Fawehinmi of blessed memory, Houngbedji trained as a lawyer; and, like Fawehinmi; Houngbedji was never afraid to speak out in defence of the truth, even at the risk of losing his life. Houngbedji, in deed, was a thorn in the flesh of Kerekou in those days, when the latter served as head of government of the then socialist state.

To escape alleged possible assassination, Houngbedji had to flee into exile in Gabon; where he lived for years until 1990, when he returned to join others in pressing for a sovereign national conference that eventually put paid to Kerekou’s dictatorship, finally paving the way to the democratic governance, which Benin Republic has enjoyed, uninterrupted, for over 20 years now.

Subsequently, Aplahoue-born Houngbedji had served twice as President of Benin National Assembly from 1991 to 1995 and 1999 to 2003. A Member of the Academy of Sciences and co-President of the ACP-EU Parliament in 2001; Houngbedji is also recipient of “grand-croix de l’Ordre national du Benin”, the highest honour in his country. It is worth recalling that this is Hougbedji’s fourth shot at the presidency; and, that he came third in the 2001 presidential election. In 2006; he came second. Could he possibly come first in 2011? Only time can tell.

Interestingly, 23 flag-bearers had earlier emerged for as many political parties; but, the constitutional court had disqualified nine aspirants for various reasons. Those barred from running are; Thierry Didier Adjovi, Olivier Agossou Lary-Egoundoukpe, Yacouba Olaniyi Badaru, Phillipe Toyo Noudjenoume, Henri Medrid, Ganseli Hermine Capo-Chichi, Patrice Ago Simenou, Louis Tobossou and Francois Xavier Loko.

Interestingly, Benin’s Constitutional Court (Cour Constitutionnel) has been kept extra-busy because of this year’s presidential election: such has been the contribution of this court in interpreting the laws to determine who was eligible to vie and who was not as well as appraising requests for postponement of the election that media focus had sometimes shifted from the flag-bearers and their parties to the Cour Constitutionnel and its President, Justice Robert Dossou. In deed, former president of Burundi, Mr. Pierre Buyoya, who is leader of an observer mission from the International Organisation of French-speaking states’ (l’Organisation International de l’etat Francophonie); held a meeting with Justice Dossou in Benin last week.

It is pertinent to point out here that whoever emerges victorious in this year’s Benin presidential election would have his hands full. Although Yayi has in many ways positively transformed the state of this country’s infrastructure, a lot more work remains to be done. Cheerily, all the leading candidates are accomplished professionals; also, both Yayi and Houngbedji are doctorate degree holders.

Houngbedji was described throughout his school days by various teachers as an exceptionally brilliant student. By 1967, when he was barely 25 years old, Houngbedji had bagged a PhD in Law from University of Paris. Apart from having served in Benin Supreme Court, Houngbedji also has years of experience as a two-time distinguished Member of Parliament. In deed, many believe he is better connected to members of Benin’s political elite than anyone else.

On the other hand, Yayi who holds a PhD, which he earned in 1991 from University of Orleans in France; had served as Presidential Technical Adviser on Financial Matters in the past and had also, garnered useful experience from working in high-ranking capacity for many years at BCEAO (Central Bank of West Africa).

Clearly, therefore, each man is well qualified to serve as president; and, whoever wins would bring invaluable experience to office. Hopefully, that would rub off positively on the fortunes of the average citizen.

  

 - By MAURICE ARCHIBONG in Cotonou: +22966757512

Sight and sounds of Potiskum

Sights and sounds of Potiskum

Welcome to Potiskum, an ancient settlement in Yobe State, north-eastern Nigeria. Ngizim is the name of Potiskum’s earliest settlers, although different historians, ethnologists and anthropologists had variously recorded this ethnic group as Nguzum, Ngwazim, N’gazim, Ngojin, Ngazar, Nkazara and even Nguidjim.

Mai Pataskum. PHOTOS: MAURICE ARCHIBONG

Today, virtually all Ngizim are Muslims; proud, devout and sincere worshippers. But, once upon a time, before Islam came their way; not by violence but by persuasion and voluntary adoption; Ngizim believed in a deity called “Gisku”. Those days, upon returning from war, the soldiers shared the spoils on the outskirts of town. As tradition had it, the heart of every animal captured as part of the spoils of war that was slaughtered to be shared among the warriors was reserved for the town’s Mai (traditional ruler).

But, on one occasion; it was discovered that the number of hearts was one short of the number of cows that had been killed and shared. After counting and cross-checking, the warriors were still baffled because things simply didn’t add up. After much more pondering over the mystery yielded no fruit, they decided to leave everything in hands of Gisku.

As was their tradition, upon reaching such a pass; the worried warriors looked to the heavens and prayed. To conclude their supplication, the shocked soldiers chorused: “Gisku, we leave this issue in your hands”. And, pronto! A lightening sprang forth from the skies and struck one of the soldiers named Ari. Ari hit the ground and died instantly. As some of the returnees would later tell the town’s folk; Ari had actually died, even before his body hit the earth.

In any case, it was subsequently discovered that Ari had stolen the missing heart, which was later recovered from the dead man’s bag. That, in a nutshell, is how the phrase “Ari-Gisku” entered Ngizim vocabulary. “Ari” means “with you”, while “Gisku” stands for God. The incident, local lore has it, took place at Babut Village in Yerimaram; near the present Palace of Mai Pataskum, Alhaji Umaru Bubaram Ibn Wuriwa Bauya I; according to Mallam Usman Garba Potiskum alias Babayo, who is Curator of Pataskum Emirate Council Palace Museum. 

Pataskum Emirate Council Palace

To date, a sacred tree stands as part of a symbolic shrine of “Ari-gisku”; whose legend goes back to time immemorial; to those days, when judgment came swift as a swallow; when sin was abhorred and everyone lived in fear of the all-knowing, all-seeing and all-powerful God.

“We don’t have shrines”, the town’s paramount ruler, Mai Pataskum, told us during an encounter inside the Pataskum Emirate Council Palace. Interestingly, however, many Ngizim were Ziga or practitioners of traditional religion in ancient times.

Evidently, times and attitudes have changed across Potiskum and in deed all over Ngizim lands; for, in the days of yore, adherents of traditional faith worshipped Gamarim, a unisex deity. Although Islam swept Ngizim nation almost 1,000 years ago, when they aligned themselves with the revered Kanem-Borno Empire, Ngizim people are, nonetheless, proud of their heritage.

The high level of their intellect could be gleaned from their traditional craft and how they relate with their environment and others around them. Furthermore, Ngizim people played enviable roles in the development of their immediate environment and surrounding territories. For example, Waziri Kabir Kursu Ibn Harun was a unique Ngizim warrior, which led to his appointment as Commander-in-Chief of the Army during the reign of the famous Mai Idris Alooma (1571 to 1585).

Sacred tree in Yerimaram

Aside Waziri Kabir Kursu Ibn Harun, Nasir Bultu and one Gamaru were also among many outstanding Ngizim ethnics that held exalted offices in the famed Kanem-Borno Empire. Expectedly, Ngizim people cherish their history of gallantry and rich culture; and a museum was therefore conceived to preserve this history and other aspects of the way of life of this ethnic group.

That repository, called Pataskum Emirate Council Palace Museum, was launched on 8 May, 2007 as part of ceremonies marking the formal opening of the sparkling new Pataskum Emirate Palace by the then Yobe State Governor, Alhaji Bukar Abba Ibrahim.

 - By MAURICE ARCHIBONG

Burial of Ambassador Akindele on 12 March in Ibadan

Burial of Akindele, Nigeria’s late envoy to Benin on Sat, 12 Mar

Body leaves Cotonou Fri

The burial of Mr. Lawrence Olayiwola Akindele, Nigeria’s late Ambassador to BeninRepublic; will take place on 12 March in Ibadan, Oyo State.

The Embassy of Nigeria in Cotonou; where the late top-flight diplomat held sway, held a Service of Songs from 5pm to 7pm on Wednesday, 9 March, at the local Ambassador’s Residence in honour of their departed boss.

Meanwhile, during a chat at the Nigerian Embassy on Monday, 7 March with Mr. Ajayi Ayoola James, Charge d’Affair, following Ambassador Akindele’s demise; it was gathered that the remains of the late envoy will depart Cotonou at 6am on Friday, 11 March; for Ibadan.

In the same vein, executives of the Cotonou chapter of Nigerians in Diaspora Organization (NIDO), after a meeting with other members of the local Nigerian community on Wednesday; revealed at least one luxury bus had been hired to convey sympathisers to Ibadan for the burial. The vehicle(s) will depart Cotonou at 5am on 12 March for Ibadan, according to Pa Abdul-Lateef Olujobi; who spoke with mauricearchibongtravels in the Beninese economic capital.

According to funeral arrangements announced by the family, the interment will be preceded by a wake at the deceased’s compound, No. 9 Awomoro Street in the Shasha neighbourhood of Ibadan on 11 March; followed by Requiem Mass, billed to begin at 9am, the next day; 12 March, at the University of Ibadan Catholic Cathedral. Interment will follow thereafter.

Epitaphs

Meanwhile, tributes have been pouring in for the late Ambassador Akindele, who died at the age of 57 years on Thursday, 3 February 2011. NIDO Cotonou President, Chief Emmanuel Uko Elendu, was among the earliest to pay a condolence visit to the Nigerian embassy; and, has been at the forefront in arrangements to make the trip to Ibadan as comfortable as possible for members of the local Nigerian community, most of who are still reeling in shock over Ambassador Akindele’s sudden transition.

Similarly, Chief Ebuka Onunkwo, Leader of Igbo Union in Benin Republic; has also contribution in various ways to succour his grieving compatriots. Chief Onunkwo, who described Ambassador Akindele’s passage as a terrible blow to the Nigerian community; had added: “It is a disaster to Nigerians in Benin Republic”.

Ambassador Akindele’s death “Has created a gaping vacuum because he was a very good man. Apart from being an outstanding diplomat, he also stood out as a humane and very humble personality. He ran an open-door policy and all Nigerians came to see in Ambassador Akindele; a friend, a brother and a father. In fact, words cannot describe the way I feel”; the Igbo Leader rued. 

Chief Onunkwo re-echoed this impression in his tribute left in the condolence register, where he wrote, inter alia; “We are going to miss you tremendously. You were like a father to all of us; now, we’re like sheep without shepherd. A big vacuum has been created”.

The entry of Chief Omeregbe Bruno, Chairman of Edo Community; who was first to sign the condolence register was: “This life is a journey and a visitor must come and go”, while the lament of Medina Nadako, an Abuja-based freelance journalist, was: “It was an honour knowing a true diplomat like you; unfortunately, the relationship we established is now short-lived. Just a few days ago, I played back the interview I had with you, unknowingly to me, you had passed on. I will definitely miss your warmth and camaraderie anytime I visit the embassy. Thank God for your able leadership, your staffs have taken after you”.

“Serving the fatherland with patriotism and competence is our duty as citizens but for some, it is a high calling. He was one of our best and we are grateful for his exhibitions”, wrote Prof. Alfred E. Opubor of WANAD Centre, Cotonou. “Your exit is painful to me and all the children who were with you in August 2010. We can’t forget your fatherly role which you played while we were in Cotonou on excursion. We only submit to the will of the Almighty God”, stated Mrs. C.S. Nwoye of Channelle Francaise.

Ambassador Ramadan Bakr, Embassy of Egypt, Medegan K. Frederick, Embassy of Angola, Ambassador Muftau Laleye, Embassy of Benin Republic, Abuja; are among members of the diplomatic community that left tributes in the condolence register. Tributes also came in from staff/students of Jos University, Laurel International School, Cotonou; Adesina College Ibadan, Soussoukpe Sylvaine of Huawei Technologies in Benin Republic; University of Ilorin; Funso Ibitoye of EcoBank, Seme branch, observed: “He lived a good life”.

Others that have visited the Nigerian mission to condole with the family and embassy staffers include members of the International Model School, Cotonou as well as the Rebuilding Nigeria Initiative aka West Coast Movement.

Legacies

Akindele assumed duty as Nigeria’s Ambassador in Cotonou on 8 July, 2009; he had earlier worked as Permanent Representative of Nigeria’s Mission to the United Nations in New York, USA, among other postings; in a distinguished diplomatic career which spanned decades.

An alumnus of University of Ibadan, Akindele was much loved by everyone, irrespective of ethnic group, religion or calling. In deed, memorable encomiums were showered on him by Nigerians of all nationalities during a reception held at the local embassy’s residence; when President Goodluck Ebele Jonathan visited Cotonou on 31 December last year. 

It could be recalled that President Jonathan was so touched by commendations for Akindele and the improved Nigerian Embassy Cotonou that he practically quipped: “I am happy that our embassy here has transformed from mere consulting clinic to a teaching hospital”.

Truly, Akindele radically transformed the hitherto negative perception by the Nigerian community of their country’s mission in the brief period that he spent as Nigeria’s envoy to Benin. One of his legacies is the Business Forum, which has brought together principal stakeholders of the Nigerian corporate community working in Benin Republic.

A keen athlete, Akindele was a table tennis champion in his younger days and represented Nigeria at several international competitions in this sport. Those that knew him would also remember him as a man of epicurean taste and as a lover of music; especially one from cordophones like the guitar. Akindele also read frequently because of his high regard for proper education and development of one’s intellect.

Decades after taking a degree in linguistics from University of Ibadan, Akindele could still read Greek and Latin; these, he told me during a conversation, while riding with him in a car taking him to Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport, Abuja, where he had a Cotonou-bound flight to board last November; had helped him in his work a great deal. He was eloquent in French, and rarely had cause to use any dictionary because of his knowledge of linguistics. His training in linguistics and knowledge of Greek and Latin translated into a good grasp of the etymology of countless English language words.

His interest in education had also manifested in a reorganisation of the Nigerian International School Cotonou, where interviews for principal and deputies were thrown open. After what many described as a very rigorous process, a new principal and three vice-principals had been appointed. Furthermore, after years of struggling to have a passport section in Nigerian Embassy Cotonou, it was in Akindele’s time as ambassador that vital equipment for that purpose was finally installed.

Dirge

Married with children, Akindele was a happy family man; and, he often spoke about his children with infectious affection. However, he could also pass for a workaholic. But, he would be vindicated by the phenomenal success his career turned out to be. From his dedication to work, it was as if he had some premonition that the end was near.   

I had left him in the office at 11pm on 30 December, 2011; while the embassy prepared to receive President Jonathan the following day. On my way out of his office, he had called out to remind me to be at Cotonou international airport before 8.30am on 31 December.

I had managed to make it to the airport in the nick of time and had jokingly expressed surprise that embassy protocol and others had made it there before me, even when I left them at work around 11pm the previous day. To my surprise, I was told that the ambassador actually closed from yesterday’s work at 4am the following morning.

It’s not every time an envoy gets to host his country’s Number One, so no stone was left unturned in preparations for the arrival of Dr. Jonathan. Every one at Nigeria House in Cotonou therefore had to work extra hard to ensure the visit went smoothly. At the end of the day; Ambassador Akindele and his team would be vindicated by the huge success President Jonathan’s trip turned out to be. It could be recalled that Akindele had similarly scored an A in October, 2010; when his mission organised a celebration of Nigeria’s 50^th independence anniversary in Cotonou.

After that New Year’s Eve assignment, I was set to resume my journey to Ivory Coast, my original destination until being informed of the possibility of President Jonathan’s visit to Cotonou; and, had put in a call to Ambassador Akindele to tell him I was on my way. The man had invited me to meet him to bid me farewell; and, guess where that encounter took place? Inside his office at the Nigerian Embassy on New Year Day!

On arrival at the Ghanaian settlement of Elubo, I had been discouraged from entering Ivory Coast because of news of the spiralling crisis then and had begun my return trip to Nigeria. As I approached Nigeria, I had called at the ambassador’s residence on a Saturday only to be told he was at work. I had joined him in the office, where he introduced me to another topflight diplomat described as Coordinator.

The three of us were there till about 8pm; when one of Akindele’s children, a son and an SS2 student, was shown into his father’s office. The lad, apparently unable to bear daddy’s absence any longer; had come to enquire: “Dad, when are you coming home”? “Very soon, very soon”, Ambassador Akindele had replied somewhat apologetically. In a way, this compelled me to leave to enable our affable egbon rejoin his family.

On my way out, Ambassador Akindele had advised me to call him on his Nigerian number from around 28 January; when he would be visiting Abuja for consultations. As we had agreed, I had called him on 1 February. When I couldn’t reach him on his Nigerian number, I had tried the Beninese one all to no avail. After several attempts to reach him on all numbers failed the second day, I had called the General Secretary of Nigerian community, Pa Abdul-Lateef Olujobi, to enquire if he had seen Ambassador Akindele.

This chief scribe had said he just returned to Cotonou after a trip home; and, that he would get in touch with me after visiting the embassy, where a meeting had been scheduled the next day. Sadly, after calling some other Nigerians, I had learnt that His Excellency had been hospitalised; following what seemed to be stress-related ailments. Further probes later revealed his state was critical and that an air ambulance was on hand to fly him abroad for emergency medical treatment.

And, like a bolt out of the blue, news of the man’s passage hit me through a text message the next day. Our beloved guide had gone. I had subsequently rushed to Cotonou, where I met many in tears. In my grief, my heart went out to the late man’s family: If his son couldn’t stand missing him for hours, what now; when daddy was gone forever? Yet, in this funereal moment I was struck by a consoling philosophical muse: Our ultimate father is God Almighty. He gives and He takes; but, so is His kindness that He does not give any one a cross too heavy to carry. At that moment, US President, Mr. Barack Obama, crossed my mind. Truly, God Almighty is our ultimate parent.

This experience is heart-rending: our great friend is gone, but we find solace in the fact that he was a good man; one who left good examples for others to follow. Interestingly, I knew Ambassador Akindele for barely four months; and, like many others, I wish I had known him much earlier in life. Good men will die, but death cannot kill their names. Sun re o…

Nicholas Kowalski and two of his paintings, a decade apart

Nicholas Kowalski. PHOTOS: MAURICE ARCHIBONG

Above: A 2008 painting by Kowalski. Below: A 1998 rendition.

Celebrating Ghana at 54

ENCOUNTER

Nicholas Kowalski: Ghanaian artist and gallery operator

Twenty years ago, in 1989, Ghanaian painter and art historian Nicholas Kowalski made his first visit to Nigeria. Mr. Kowalski came to Nigeria because his works were among those that went on show in a group exhibition organized by Fenchurch Art Gallery. Three years after that exhibition, in 1992, Kowalski had returned to Nigeria for a two-day holiday.

In the same vein, he has made several stop-over in Lagos or Abuja in the course of international flights. All these notwithstanding, Kowalski admitted he really doesn’t know Nigeria. He said he would love to visit Nigeria more often but, “You know how it is,” he mused, alluding to his tight schedule, which includes being a family man, a painter, art historian and gallery operator.

We, Kowalski and I; first met in 1997, during my visit to Ghana to report on that country’s 40^th anniversary. Over the years, I must have travelled to the Ghanaian capital some 40 times, and most of those times; I had looked in on Kowalski. Apart from stopping by to see this artist, I was also attracted to his home because Kowalski runs an art mart, Step-in Gallery, in the frontal area of the compound where he resides.

Viewing the different paintings on display over the years, one consciously and unconsciously gleans trends, styles, and perhaps, what the numismatists are collecting. Since Kowalski holds a masters degree in art history, one could also rely on him for further insights as to the goings-on. It is for the sake of the location of Kowalski’s art shop and home as well as that of Samlotte House, home to The Loom, Accra’s first art gallery that I usually stay in the Kwame Nkrumah Circle area of town, each time I visit Ghana.

Interestingly, in July 2009, Mr. Kowalski’s Step-in Gallery closed shop. After 13 years operating along Farrar Avenue in Adabraka area of Accra, painter and art historian Kowalski told “mauricearchibongtravels”: “We’re moving to East Legon”.

Accra’s East Legon neighbourhood could be likened to Victoria Island, Lagos in terms of rental and tenement; so, how was Kowalski planning to cope? That’s how we discovered that unlike the original home of Step-in, where Kowalski was a tenant, the artist was moving to East Legon, because “This is my own place: It’s a project I’ve been doing over the last eight years”.

By 1994, Kowalski had earned a Master of Art degree (Art History) from the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology. Earlier, in 1991, he had bagged a Bachelor of Arts degree (BA) in Painting from the same institution.

Faced by what he considered unfair treatment at the hands of Accra’s major Galleries, those days; Kowalski launched his own art mart, Step-in Gallery, in September 1996. Step-in gallery, he told me in 1997, was set up just to sell his works.

“I didn’t set up this gallery to sell other people’s works; 70% of the works here are mine.”

However, when he recalled the pains he encountered at the hands of some art dealers until he set up his own art mart, Kowalski said he had to accommodate a few friends and collects 30% commission on each work sold.

That, in a nutshell, is how Step-in Gallery came into being. Now, the art mart has not only moved home, Kowalski revealed there were plans to also change its name. Although he would not say that art business is a lucrative enterprise in Ghana, the artist said he couldn’t be happier because he was doing what he loves to do.

Kowalski is however worried by the dearth and quality of coverage of fine art by his country’s media. Hear him: “It worries me that Ghanaian papers are not documenting anything. Without these documents, we’re not laying a foundation for the history of our art”.

The situation is not helped because exhibitions are rare, which means that even those that would love to do reviews often have nothing to write about.

“A lot of artists are no longer interested in exhibitions, anyway. They sell in their studio, which is what they are doing. I haven’t done a solo show in Ghana for a long time. My last one-man exhibition was in 1997 at Step-in Gallery. The show was titled My Return because I just returned from the US then.

“But in terms of group exhibitions, I have taken part in some. One was in 2008 at Herschel Gallery in the Cantonments area, and my works were also part of the exhibition commemorating Ghana at 50, which took place in 1997 at Ghana Museums.

“Exhibition does not enhance your cause, because it’s become a social event. It’s just to come there, meet friends, and have a drink. So, there’s no reason to go. Real artists and collectors prefer quietude without crowd and other distractions. Because shows are dwindling, there’s little to write about. So, there’s nothing in the papers. So, history is getting washed down the drain”.

People should be educated about art appreciation, added Kowalski; who instantly named John Owoo as one of Ghana’s leading fine arts reporters. However, this artist-cum-gallery operator rued that he has not read an Owoo article for some time.

He hoped Mr. Owoo had not given up on fine arts reporting even as he observed the beat is shunned by many because it is not lucrative. In such circumstance, couldn’t a body of Ghanaian artists establish a grant to encourage the reporting of fine arts?

Kowalski revealed that unlike in Nigeria, where there has been a Society of Nigerian Artists (SNA) for more than 40 years, “There’s no artists’ body in Ghana”. He believes that for a Society of Ghanaian Artists, or something like that to succeed, “you need a strong base”.

That platform, he intoned, will require participation of the majority of stakeholders. Unfortunately, it would seem that convening such a forum was always going to be difficult because of the independent attitude of the majority of artists and gallery operators.

Aside inadequate media support, the predicament of the Ghanaian artist is worsened by difficulty in getting art materials.

Once upon a time, Accra could boast five marts; where art materials could be bought. These were Acrylix, Bobula, Naibo, Signature and Telfers Art Gallery. Sadly, Signature Art Gallery and Telfers folded up, leaving Bobula and Naibo, both in Osu behind Photo Club as well as Acrylix behind old US Embassy.

Kowalski again: “In the real sense of the word, there’s no art shop. Who wants to put his money in this business and wait 10 years for turnover? There are many little shops, not too professional, but you’ll find colours and brushes et cetera. The dynamics of the problem is overwhelming. People appreciate art, when they have roof over their head and food in their stomach. In view of the current economic meltdown, art is the first to suffer”.

As to where to place him, with regard to style; as an artist, or as an entrepreneur, Kowalski’s response was that, this would be a difficult thing to do. This leaves us with no option but to re-echo his response, when we put this question to him in 1997:

“I hate to categorize myself; that I am this or I am that because everyday of my life I am becoming”.

 - By MAURICE ARCHIBONG